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September 2010
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Armenian Red Berets Protect College Students?

This morning as I drove past the State Economics Institute on Nalbandyan Street in Yerevan I saw two Red Berets standing on the corner in front of the entrance. Today is back to school day across Armenia and students were flocking in front of their college buildings waiting for class to start while smoking slim cigarettes and playing with cell phones, as they do every day.

I’ve heard that oligarchs, big shots, and wannabes send their sons to the institute, which explains why there are so many fancy European cars parked in the area. The thing I did not understand was the presence of the armed military guards.Why do those privileged kids need such protection?

The Red Beret division of the Armenian military is supposedly an elite corp. There are Blue Beret soldiers as well, although I don’t understand what the difference is. You can visibly see Red Berets roaming the perimeter of the Opera House every evening, and they travel using in pairs or packs of four. They walk around at a snail’s pace while staring at males suspiciously. Once in a while you see them communicating on walkie-talkies or cell phones. Most of these guys are noticeably overweight, and I can’t imagine any of them running very fast (although I’m sure their blows can inflict serious damage).

You would think that the Defense Ministry had better things to do than to place military details at areas where the businesses of oligarchs are located. After all, it’s not the oligarchs themselves who visit their own establishments, and even if they do, they have their own armed bodyguards with them, so the military presence seems redundant. Besides, Yerevan has a police force to deal with fights that arbitrarily break out between young males, so it seems to me that the army should not be involved in public shoving matches. I can see them being needed when diplomats visit the area — when President Dimitry Medvedev was here last week he went to a cafe somewhere with President Sarkisian, so obviously maximum security was needed at that time. But what threat do middle-aged couples pose strolling around with their kids?

I really don’t know what to think about it any more as I’ve become used to feeling the presence of Red Berets roaming the streets of stoic downtown Yerevan. I used to be intimidated, even disgusted to see them, but now I walk right by them without giving second thought. Nevertheless, it was surreal to see them on campus today, and I can’t help but wonder what students who aren’t being protected think.

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An Afternoon in Gyumri

Yesterday I took a trip to Gyumri with two fellow Americans. We first visited the marvelous monastery Marmashen before driving around town and then wandering in the historic district. Although we were only in the area for a few hours, I was fairly impressed with the second largest city of Armenia.

Gyumri is in some ways still in a rebound since the 1988 earthquake and the country’s independence. Several construction projects are ongoing, including housing for struggling homeless earthquake victims. There are people still living in trailers believe it or not after all these years. But I noticed a lot of new two-story buildings going up to support businesses in various areas of town. The new, sprawling City Hall is erected on Central Square, a reincarnation of the grand structures built in the era of Imperial Russia, but it is not yet open for business.

I am happy to say that no matter what is going up, there is some effort made to retain the facade of the late 19th century architectural design in some way. Several buildings are more plain looking than others, but there is a noticeable attempt to make structures look as much like they were once built, without much deviation from the norm.

The historic district is quite charming — it was the first time that I explored the central area on foot. There are noticeably quite a few green areas and certainly more trees lining the streets than you can find in Yerevan. The All Saints Church (which was I believe damaged during the earthquake) is also being faithfully restored.

Gyumri has come a long way since I visited it in the spring of last year, and the overall look of the city can’t be compared to the grimness that I surmised when I first visited in 2002. It’s more eye appealing for one thing, and there are businesses abound, so the socio-economic situation–at least on the surface without looking at any figures–seems to be on the upswing. Though you will find the same industrial wastelands that you see in pretty much most inhabited areas of Armenia.

By comparison to Yerevan, Gyumri is a very pleasant place to be. I’ll go ever farther by saying that it’s the most attractive city of Armenia that I’ve seen. Things are only looking up.

Unfortunately, due to server-related problems regrettably beyond my control, I can no longer upload images to this blog. See Notes From Hairenik for photos.

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A Call For Entries

I want to change the dynamic of this blog to make it more interactive  by inviting anyone living in or even visiting Armenia who is proficient in the English language and wants to express his or her ideas about what’s happening around them to contribute.  Those of you who do not have an outlet to do so are encouraged to express yourselves in Footprints. Themes discussed can be personal, cultural, political or social in nature. Prose and poetry are welcome.

It’s important that Footprints become a blog that reaches a wider audience, to be a forum where essential and not so important topics are introduced and debated on. With your participation Footprints can be regarded as an alternative source of information and thought about any issue that pertains to Armenia and the Armenian experience. What you want to discuss is completely up to you.  But please refrain from writing text that could be construed as being slanderous.

Send your entries to cgarbis@yahoo.com. You can sign your entry (either with your real name or pseudonym) or choose to be anonymous.  I look forward to publishing them.

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Scenes From Aghveran

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All photos of Aghveran, Kotayk, Armenia by Christian Garbis

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Things Happening (or not) in Armenia

The summer is upon us, which means that things will begin slowing down in Yerevan politically and socially, but not necessarily culturally. There’s always plenty to do for social butterflies in the summer months, plenty of cafes to visit, concerts to attend and distractions to take your attention away from things that really matter.

Liberty Square has become a giant playground for preschoolers–the authorities are doing everything possible to prevent peaceful political demonstrations from happening there. In the meantime, cafes galore where you can watch the World Cup soccer games while drinking a beer or two and even place bets with the “international bookmakers” doing business here. We have another few weeks of that to go.

In the meantime, political life will begin to drop off for the summer, on both ends of the spectrum. The entire government even shuts down during late summer for a couple of weeks, something that really perplexes me. Even the press takes a break–all newspapers and even online news sources stop working because there’s nothing apparently to report. That is of course absurd but that’s the way things work in a tiny country of barely 3 million people.

The Karabagh peace process will not go anywhere this year after the Azerbaijani-initiated skirmishes on the border on Saturday, half a day after both Presidents Serge Sarkisian and Illham Aliev met with Dmitry Medvedev in St. Petersburg. Yet on a positive note, I’ve been reading about conferences being held where Armenian and Azerbaijani university students meet to get to know one another and share experiences, in an effort to reach out and find some kind of solution to the conflict through the channels of civil society. Based on what they have written, in other words their own personal accounts, their efforts are naive and impractical at best.

Indeed, there should be discussion between the two societies, but at the end of the day, the Azerbaijanis expect things to go back to the status quo of the Soviet era–in other words for Karabagh to once again be placed under Azerbaijani control (naturally with the Armenian-occupied lands returned) in exchange for “the highest level of autonomy,” and I am pretty sure that the younger Azerbaijani generation expects the same, having been thoroughly brainwashed. So don’t necessarily understand what the Armenian and Azerbaijani youth groups are aiming to achieve through casual dialogue and partying (again, according to what I read).

Having said that, I really have no grounds for criticizing the youth because there needs to be discussion, the two sides must talk to one another through unofficial channels, now more than ever. My concern is–to what end?

I couldn’t find any more news about Gohar’s case. If anyone reading this blog has, please leave a comment with a link to the article you’ve found.

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Server Upgrade

Until things are straightened out with our server upgrade, I probably will not post something for the next couple of days. Hopefully, the issues related to the upgrade will be resolved soon.

Thanks.

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